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Karen Shaw Becker, DVM, NMD
Helping birds reach their full potential is one
of our main goals as their guardians. The more we learn about avian health, the
more we realize that “health” is not separated into emotional, physical and
mental pieces, but intertwined, like a web, to make up the whole creature.
Embracing the concept of a Web of Health allows owners to strive for balance in
their pets’ lives and experience the harmony and synergism of total avian
health.
Our western medical approach, a symptom-oriented approach, leaves us searching
for a variety of medical “tools” (surgery, medications, herbal remedies, drugs)
to use to abolish a symptom. By only treating the symptom, the root of many
medical/emotional /mental problems is often times never addressed. Over time the
body deteriorates, functional pathology (disease) occurs, leading to
irreversible structural changes and death.
Thriving vs. Surviving
Unfortunately, our society has become so accustomed to being unhealthy (or sick)
that we assume it’s normal. Just a part of life we have to accept. We also
accept this average/mediocre level of health for our pets. Many of us have
forgotten what it’s like to feel good and be healthy. Really healthy. We accept
symptom after symptom our bird expresses until it becomes a disease pattern and
eventually dis-ease, or un-health. Doctors treat the symptoms as they arise,
never addressing why the symptoms occurred in the first place. By erasing or
suppressing symptoms we falsely assume our pets are doing fine. 5-8 trips to the
vet isn’t bad in one year, right? A comment I hear almost daily in my practice
is, “My pet was healthy until he developed cancer” (or fatty liver disease, or
any other chronic, degenerative disease). Most traditional vets agree when
clients make these statements, shaking their heads and rubbing their chins,
wondering what went wrong. Looking back on the thick file, one can trace the
steps of dis-ease with little effort.
100%
H
thriving/self maintenance
75%
E
“health”
A
50%
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unhealth
(dis-ease)
L
symptoms/functional disturbance
T
25%
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
H
structural
changes
(tumors, fibrosis, organ failure)
______________________________________________________________________
Birth
Death
T
I M E
I firmly believe our current health approach
conditions us to believe that we were meant to break down and fall apart over
time. The traditional belief is at birth, health is 100%. There is a constant
linear decline as we progress through life and somewhere around 60 everything
falls apart, we get cancer and have a lingering, awful death. THIS IS A LIE. YOU
AND YOUR PETS ARE NOT PRE-DISTESTINED TO LIVE THIS WAY. Health is based on 2
factors: genetics and environment. If you select a genetically inferior pet, you
must work very hard on its environmental immune system to maintain vibrant
health. It can be done, it just takes a little work. If you select a genetically
superior bird you will most likely have fewer health problems, as long as you
focus on maintaining a good environment. My recommendation for those of you that
purchase birds is to research, research, research any potential new addition.
Especially if you are considering breeding the new addition. Scrutinize
everything. You can’t ask too may questions. If you rescue birds, your focus
must be on improving its environmental immune system to gain optimal health.
To understand your birds’ ability to thrive you must understand the link
between nutrition and health. Good nutrition is the foundation of good health.
It is the single most important factor in determining your birds’ overall health
and quality of life. Many people never think about what their bird eats unless
they begin to have digestive problems or start to feather pick. Many of us have
invested thousands of dollars in pet foods over a lifetime, assuming what we are
feeding is healthy and balanced. After all, it’s what the breeder told you to
feed. It’s what the bird has eaten its whole life. The bag says, “optimal
nutrition,” or it’s pellets, which is always nutritionally complete. Right? Why
then, do we have more degenerative diseases now than ever before? More cancers,
more autoimmune diseases, more allergies, more emotional problems? Is something
missing? What’s going on? To understand the bird foods that are commercially
available, it is important to understand the industry.
Understanding the pet food industry
Neither the USDA nor the FDA are involved with regulating the pet food industry.
These regulatory bodies govern people food, but not pet food. To date, our
government does not have a set program to test commercial pet foods. The
National Research Council (NRC) set nutritional standards for pet food until
1974, when the pet food industry formed the American Association of Feed Control
Officials (AAFCO). This is not a federal or governmental appointed council.
AAFCO’s main responsibilities are to regulate label text and product names.
Because it is a private organization, pet food companies do not have to comply
with these standards if they don’t want to and AAFCO has no enforcement
authority. Interestingly, each state can set pet food manufacturing guidelines
that must be adhered to for that state. Alaska and Florida have no guidelines
for pet foods produced in their states.
AAFCO was formed in 1974 because the industry found NRC’s regulations to be too
restrictive and created its own procedures for claiming nutritional adequacy in
pet foods. They also decided that instead of lengthy feeding trials, chemical
nutritional analysis would be conducted to determine minimum nutritional
requirements.
Chemical analysis is not analytical; it does not determine the source or quality
of protein, fiber, or fat. It also does not address palatability, digestibility,
or bioavailability. Interesting how the pet food companies set their own
regulations for their own products! AAFCO dictates whether a food is “complete
and balanced.” They set the amounts of fat, carbohydrate, protein, trace
minerals and vitamins that go into foods. Independent research has continually
revealed a wealth of updated nutritional information, yet AAFCO can choose to
update their standards…. or not. Any manufacturer can synthesize a food that
meets AAFCO’s standards, yet pets can and have starved on the diet. How? AAFCO
sets the minimum standards, but not the optimums.
How do we know that what’s on the label is really in the bag? We don’t. It is
nearly impossible to analyze bird foods for specific ingredients. Manufacturers
can either provide its competitors with a list of proprietary ingredients or
simply not comply with a law that is essentially unenforceable.
Understanding pet foods
Pet foods provide a place where discarded grains can be used. Most grains, seeds
and nuts in the pet food industry are there because they have been rejected for
human consumption. James Morris and Quinton Rogers, professors of Molecular
Biosciences at the UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine assert that, “There is
no information on the bioavailablity of nutrients for companion animals in many
of the common dietary ingredients used in pet food. These ingredients are
generally by-products of the meat, poultry and agriculture industries with the
potential for a wide variation in nutrient and contaminant composition. Claims
of nutritional adequacy of pet foods based on the current AAFCO standards do not
give assurances of nutritional adequacy and will not until ingredients are
analyzed and bioavailability values are incorporated.” The guaranteed analysis
(found on every bag of pet food) lists the minimum or maximum amounts of
protein, fat, moisture and fiber. It does not list the quality of the
ingredients or the body’s ability to absorb them. A blend of motor oil,
vitamins, minerals, feathers and leather will meet the NRC’s requirements for
fat, protein and fiber.
So now what?
As if things weren’t already confusing enough, we have complicated the question
of what to feed and not feed to our birds to the point of utter confusion. New
bird foods are released almost monthly. Veterinary nutritional research is
changing yearly. Owners are bewildered with choices and claims of foods being
tastier, more naturally preserved, veterinary recommended, with vitamin E,
without spirulina. Peanuts, no peanuts! Dried fruits, bean mixes, birdy breads,
but no white flour! It’s enough to make your head spin.
One truth we can’t ignore: all life requires living foods for health. Can you
and your bird survive on canned/boxed foods? Sure. Can you or you bird thrive on
canned/boxed foods? No. It’s that simple. I recommend people take a common sense
approach to avian health, thinking about what their bird would be doing in the
wild. I like to break it down into two categories: what birds need in their
life, and what they can do without.
What birds need to be healthy
Exercise
A lack of exercise certainly contributes to many of the physical and
psychological problems of captive birds. Furthermore, the average avian diet is
devoid of crucial enzymes for normal metabolic function and is high in fat. When
birds are not provided healthy “fuel” for energy production and move about in a
3 x 3 foot area, several things occur. Boredom and frustration-related emotional
problems arise. Birds lose muscle tone and gain fat. Owner must provide
opportunities for birds to exercise and create activities that encourage
physical motion.
Essential fatty acids
Fatty acids are vital for healthy birds and are necessary for many bodily
functions, including normal reproductive function and healthy skin and coat.
There is mounting evidence that essential fatty acids play a significant role in
mediating and regulating inflammatory and immunologic responses within the body
as well. Birds have strict dietary requirements for certain fatty acids that
cannot be synthesized by the body and are therefore called essential, as they
must come from the food. Animals that forage food in the wild never have EFA
deficiencies, as the sensitive oils are present in almost all living (raw)
foods. Essential fatty acids are very sensitive to heat and light and can become
inactivated quickly if heated, which is why they are devoid in processed foods.
Omega 6 and 3 fatty acids derive their names from their chemical composition
(where the first double hydrocarbon is in the structure). Birds require both
omega 3 (alpha-linolenic) and omega 6 (linoleic) acids. These healthy fats also
promote absorption of the fat-soluble vitamins A,D,E and K, which are vital for
psittacine health. They are also involved in the conversion of beta-carotene to
vitamin A. The “good” fats are found primarily in raw nuts and legumes, which
should be a part of every bird’s diet. Nuts are an excellent source of protein,
fiber (one ounce of nuts has as much fiber as two slices of whole wheat bread),
vitamin E, magnesium, zinc, selenium, copper, potassium, phosphorus, biotin,
riboflavin, niacin, and phytonutrients.
Every cell in your bird’s body requires EFA’s for rebuilding and producing new
cells. The brain and spinal cord (myelin) is composed of 60% EFA’s. The omega 3
fatty acids allow for the production of eicosanoids (i.e. prostaglandins and
leukotrienes) which are compounds that regulate inflammation, immune-reactivity
and platelet aggregation. The omega 3 fatty acids are currently being researched
for their potential beneficial roles in cancer, auto-immune disease, allergies
and some skin conditions. EFA’s are used to produce many chemical messengers
that regulate a variety of body processes. Omega 3 deficiency results in stunted
growth, vision impairment, motor incoordination, muscle weakness and immune
dysfunction. Good sources of omega 3’s are walnuts and Brazil nuts, pumpkin
seeds, dark green leafy vegetables, flax seeds, legumes, hazelnuts, pinenuts,
almonds, macadamias, pecans, oats.
A lack of omega 6 fatty acids will result in poor development and failure to
gain weight, decreased immune function, liver and kidney degeneration,
behavioral disturbances, poor wound healing, infertility, male sterility, poor
feather development, feather loss and scaly dermatitis. The omega 6 fatty acids
are also required for maintenance of the skin’s permeability barrier:
arachidonic acid regulates epidermal proliferation (skin regeneration rate). If
there is a shortage of omega 6 fatty acids, birds develop dry, flaky skin and
dull, weak feathers (which leads to feather breakage and loss). The normal lipid
film on the skin is not maintained and the skin is prone to secondary bacterial
infections and itchiness. The omega 6 fatty acids are found in plant oils such
as flaxseed, pumpkin, borage or primrose oil.
Contrary to popular belief, not all fats are bad. The “bad” oxidized, saturated
fats found mostly in meat and cheeses, fried foods, shortenings and margarine,
contain cholesterol, choke arteries and lead to liver disease and obesity. Nuts
are plant products and are low in saturated fats and contain no cholesterol.
Ninety percent of the fats in nuts are the monounsaturated and polyunsaturated
type (the good type). Feeding nuts will raise the percentage of unsaturated fats
and lower the percentage of the "bad" saturated fats, enhancing energy
production so less fat is deposited. I believe all birds should eat nuts. The
number of nuts you offer depends on the species of birds you maintain. Some
birds (cockatoos, budgies) require far less fat than others (macaws, hawk-headed
parrots) and therefore should consume fewer nuts. Parrots have a natural taste
for nuts and will try almost any new food that tastes like nuts. Almond meal and
almond butter are good choices for flavoring foods to tempt finicky parrots. I
do not recommend peanuts because of the prevalence of aspergillus spores on the
shells.
Enzymes
Enzymes are protein catalysts, or specific substances that allow biologic
processes to occur in the body. These tiny proteins are vital for most metabolic
processes and assist in the majority of bodily functions. Life cannot exist
without them. There are thousands of enzymes produced in our pet’s bodies and it
would be impossible to name them all, but enzymes can generally be categorized
as digestive or metabolic. Metabolic enzymes catalyze chemical reactions that
assist with energy production and detoxification. They are found in the blood,
organs and tissues and help maintain the body. Digestive enzymes are produced in
the pancreas and found in the gastrointestinal tract. They break down food so
nutrients can be absorbed into the bloodstream.
Enzymes are very sensitive to heat. All of the valuable enzymes your bird craves
and metabolically needs are removed from foods that are heated in any way. What
does this mean? Your bird must be provided with living, whole, unprocessed foods
to derive the enzymes necessary to carry out all of these processes. The diet of
most wild psittacines is predominantly a fresh food diet. All commercial bird
foods are devoid of naturally occurring enzymes, as they have all been processed
to have at least a three month shelf life. These foods are convenient for you,
but don’t contain all that your bird needs to be healthy. Living foods must be a
part of every bird’s diet. Some of the veggies I recommend you include in your
bird’s diet include broccoli, turnip, dark green leafy lettuces (no iceberg),
watercress, peas, beans, celery, cauliflower, squash, tomato, carrots, corn,
sweet potatoes, yams, carrots, squash (pumpkin, butternut, hubbard, acorn), hot,
sweet and red peppers.
One of the best source of enzymes is sprouted seeds. Un-nutritious, dormant
seeds can become your bird’s richest source of nutrition just by releasing the
seed’s untapped energy reserves through sprouting.
Sprouting 101
Wanted: Live, organic, taste-tempting food crop for parrots; must cost no more
than twenty to forty cents per pound and must grow in a very limited space
without soil, sunlight, or fertilizer; must be ready to harvest in less than a
week; must contain abundant natural vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and protein (a
quote from the Sproutpeople’s website)
Sprouted grains, legumes and seeds provide health benefits beyond those we
already associate with living, unadulterated whole foods. Sprouts are packed
full of pre-digested amino acids, proteins, chelated minerals and vitamins that
birds easily absorb and assimilate. When seeds are germinated, all the nutrients
needed for the mature plant to sustain life are contained in the tiny little
sprout, which are highly nutritious and satisfying for birds. A recent study
conducted by the Johns Hopkins School of Medicine found that, "Large quantities
of inducer enzymes that protect against carcinogens can be delivered in the diet
by small quantities of young crucifer sprouts, that is, three day old broccoli
sprouts that contain as much inducer activity as ten to a hundred times larger
quantities of mature vegetables."
Sprouting is easy. You can buy an expensive sprouter or use a glass jar with a
screen top. There are many websites that cover the “how-to” of sprouting in
great detail. I will offer some basic sprouting tips here.
1. I recommend starting your sprouting endeavor with
sunflower seeds, mung beans, lentils and wheat berries. Get your seeds from a
health food store and try to buy organic
2. Add beans to jar and rinse until water runs clear
3. Soak overnight in pure water
4. Rinse well in the morning, then invert jar and store in a dark, well
ventilated area
5. Rinse several times a day
6. Sprouts ready to feed with small “tails” appear (usually 48 hours)
What you can sprout for your birds:
Amaranth, mung beans, alfalfa, lentils, clover, adzuki beans, garbanzo beans,
barley (use only unhulled barley as "whole" hulled barley and pearled barley
will not sprout), field corn (it’s slow to germinate, but a favorite of most
parrots), cabbage, radish, kale, teff and popcorn seeds, unhulled millet, sesame
and oats, unprocessed whole brown rice, kamut, spelt, sunflower, quinoa and mung
beans.
DO NOT feed Anasazi, black, lima, pinto, fava, pinto and kidney beans in
raw/uncooked form.
Several years ago some newspapers reported that commercially raised mung beans
contained potentially toxic fungi and bacteria that were unsafe for consumption.
Remember, sprouts are living foods, and can “go bad”. Just as rotting vegetables
may become a source of disease, so can rotting sprouts. I recommend sprouting at
home, vs. buying sprouts at the store. Fresh sprouts are as safe and healthy as
any other fresh food. If you are still concerned, use a Grapefruit Seed Extract
(GSE) rinse for soaking seeds and rinsing sprouts just prior to feeding. Combine
1 tablespoon GSE to 1 gallon of soak/rinse water.
If you plant wheat sprouts, it becomes wheat grass, better known as “pet grass.”
Wheat grass is a powerful “super green food” loaded with antioxidants, enzymes
and chlorophyll.
Naturally occurring nutrients
There is no comparing the quality or absorbability of vitamins and minerals in
their natural form to the synthetic, processed nutrients added to processed
foods. We cannot make a dead, over-processed food healthy by adding a
vitamin-mineral powder. Grains lose an average of 75% or more of their vitamin
and mineral content after the germ and bran are removed in the processing and
refining procedures. During processing, grains lose more than 30 nutrients,
including B6, B1, chromium, vitamin E, magnesium, copper, zinc and manganese,
yet only 4 are replaced after processing.
Synthetic nutrients may not be recognized by a bird’s gastrointestinal tract.
When foreign nutrients are continuously oversupplied, the body can become toxic.
Many synthetic nutrients are not only potentially toxic, but can be recognized
as an allergen to a bird’s immune system, prompting an unhealthy immune response
or hypersensitivity (allergy). How can you be assured you are not over or under
supplementing your bird? Allow your multivitamin to come from whole, raw, living
foods. Living foods contain bioflavonoids, which are phytochemicals that has
important biological functions. In addition to aiding in absorption of other
substances, they provide antioxidant properties that protect against cellular
damage (free radicals). These natural substances also have anti-inflammatory and
anti-allergenic properties. We know that living foods maintain a healthy immune
system, promote fertility and decrease the incidence of disease. For those of
you concerned about your bird trying new foods, try this recipe:
A Dozen layers of love: the ultimate birdy bean dip
Start with a big bowl. Chop the dark green leafies
(mustard, endive, collards, escole, cilantro, parsley, kale, collard greens),
add chopped vegetables (carrot, green beans, squash, celery, bell pepper,
zucchini, cauliflower, kohlrabi, etc), add chopped broccoli, add lightly steamed
chopped yam or sweet potato, add dry (uncooked) whole wheat pasta, add sliced
corn on the cob (or frozen, if fresh not available), add cooked bean cuisine (or
any 17 bean mix), chopped apples, add chopped fruits, add whole grapes, add
frozen mixed vegetables and sprinkle with a healthy seed. Top with raw almonds
and store in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator. When you’re ready
to feed, add fresh sprouts and mix well. For birds just learning to like healthy
foods, add a few more seeds prior to feeding. This mix allows birds to sift and
sort (a natural food selection behavior) while encouraging them to try new
foods. Natural pellets can also be added right into the mix.
Pure water
Good water quality is essential. Well water may contain soil run-off
(pesticides, herbicides etc), toxins (radon, nitrates, bacteria, viruses,
chlorine) and heavy metals (lead, mercury, aluminum, cadmium, flouride). City
water contains excessive chorine and other chemicals. Any type of water
filtration is better than nothing. From Britta© to Reverse Osmosis, do something
to try to remove the contaminants from the water. Know your source of bottled
water. Do not add anything to your bird’s water. Supply fresh water at least
daily. Distilled water can be used during a detoxification period (up to two
months) but should not be used indefinitely. Distilled water leaches trace
minerals from the body and, over time, your bird can become deficient.
Pure air
Although you may be used to stagnant, dusty, smoke filled air, your birds will
never adjust. Chronic conjunctivitis, sinusitis and bronchitis from dusty cat
litter, cigarette smoke, old furnace filters and filthy ducts means immune
system over-time work for birds. Reducing environmental contaminants not only
improves your bird’s ability to circulate oxygen but reduces the likelihood of
respiratory disease. If anyone in the house smokes (even if they don’t smoke
inside the house) it is critical the home contains an air filtration unit. I
also recommend air purification if a home contains more than 4 “dusty” birds
(members of the cockatoo family and African greys). HEPA® air purifiers are
fine, however, the filters must be changed monthly. If filters are used any
longer, the purifier becomes a source of environmental contamination and you are
contributing to your bird’s respiratory problems. HEPA® units must also be in
relatively close proximity to the bird. I use an Alpine® ozone/ionizer at home
and at the hospital. These units also reduce dust mites, viruses and bacteria in
the home (www.alpine-air-purifiers-usa.com). Cleaning products should also be
evaluated. I recommend finding environmentally friendly, natural cleaning
supplies for your home that are friendly to you and your bird. Do not use
caustic sprays or cleaners (including odor neutralizers, carpet deodorizers or
disinfectants) around your birds.
What birds don’t need
Foods they wouldn’t find in the wild
Think about what your bird would and would not be eating in the wild. Your
bird’s diet would probably contain fresh foods, seeds and nuts. Your bird would
not be preying on chickens or nursing from a dairy cow. My list of “no no’s” for
birds includes meat, dairy, fried foods and over-processed people foods (junk
food). If you want to give your bird more protein, enrich their diet with
legumes or tofu. Birds should not consume dairy. They are not mammals and do not
nurse as infants. Their bodies do not produce lactase, the enzyme necessary to
break down and process lactose, or milk sugar. Do not stress your bird’s
pancreas by feeding dairy products. If you are concerned about calcium, offer
cuttlebone, or feed calcium-rich veggies (black beans, navy beans, soybeans,
spinach, mustard greens, tofu, bok choy, turnip greens, almonds, broccoli and
kale).
“But my bird likes french fries,” I’m told quite regularly. When you allow your
bird’s taste buds to become adapted to the average American diet (which is
loaded with fat, salt and sugar), your bird may have difficulty accepting the
healthy choices you are offering. Salt, fat and sugar are just as addicting to
your bird as they are to you. Do not offer unhealthy foods to your birds, you
are only hurting them in the long run.
In the wild, your bird would eat a variety of foods that were in season. Frozen
mixed veggies (corn, peas, carrots) are O.K. for a few days, but your bird
requires more nutrition than those 3 vegetables can offer. You should be
offering your bird a wide variety of fresh foods. Research has shown that the
nutrient content of foods harvested when they are naturally in season is much
greater than their artificially grown/engineered counterparts, or those that are
imported out of season or force-ripened (picked green and ripened with synthetic
gases).
Additives, preservatives and pesticides
Additives are usually added to please the customer, not the bird. Some people
base their bird food choice on what appeals to them visually. If the food does
not have several pleasant colors, shapes and textures sometimes sales do not
occur. Emulsifiers, surfactants, colors and antimicrobial agents are added to
almost all commercial foods to extend shelf life and enhance customer
satisfaction.
All pet foods have to add preservatives. Of the more than 8000 food additives,
no toxicity reports are available for 46% of them. Cancer causing agents are
sometimes allowed if they are used in low enough levels. Cumulative effects have
not been studied, but synergistic effects have been found to occur when BHT, BHA
and Ethoxiquin are used together. BHT and BHA are used to prevent fats from
becoming rancid. They are petroleum derivatives that accumulate in the body
causing liver enlargement and impairing DNA synthesis. Ethoxyquin is an
antioxidant preservative. It was first used in the 1950’s as a rubber stabilizer
and is now sold by PennWalt under the trade name of Deccoquin, bearing a
skull/crossbones and “POISON” written on the label. The Farm Chemical Handbook
lists Ethoxyquin as a pesticide and Hawley’s Condensed Chemical dictionary lists
it as a Hazard; toxic by ingestion. Levels can be measured in pet’s livers
months after it has been eliminated from their diets. Ethoxyquin has been
implicated in skin problems, thyroid, pancreas and immune disorders, multiple
types of cancers and organ disease.
Artificial colors often include these coal-tar derivatives; FD&C red #40
(carcinogen), yellow #5 (not tested), sodium nitrite, a red coloring that
produces the carcinogen nitrosamine if ingested on a daily basis. Blue #1 causes
chromosomal damage, Blue #2 has been linked to increased viral sensitivity and
brain tumors and red #40 know to cause hyperactivity and lymphatic tumors.
Sweeteners are used in many birds foods to entice birds to consume the product.
Sugar is addictive. Birds that are weaned onto sweetened pellets are adamant
about staying on them. Corn syrup, sugar, fructose, maltose and dextrose all
foster yeast overgrowth and over tax the pancreas.
Unlike people, who can splurge one day and choose to eat healthfully the next,
birds often get the same food everyday for life, which means in some cases,
excessive chemicals, preservatives, salt, fat and sugar. Knowing that birds are
very sensitive to environmental pollutants, we must strive to reduce their
exposure however we can. One of biggest “silent” threats is pesticides and
herbicides ingested on living foods we offer. If the pesticides have been added
to the ingredients before the pet food blends the products they do not have to
be listed on the label. Herbicides, pesticides and fungicides added at the
grainery and holding facilities are also not listed on label. Despite the fact
the label does not state specific additives are in pet foods, we cannot assume
the food is additive-free. These chemical residues are linked with endocrine
dysfunction (adrenal and thyroid problems), cancer, neurologic disease, hormone
imbalances and immune dysfunction. The Environment Working group lists these
fruits and vegetables as being the most toxic with chemical pollutants:
1. Strawberries
2. Bell peppers (green and red)
3. Spinach
4. U.S. grown cherries
5. Peaches
6. Mexican grown cantaloupe
7. Celery
8. Apples
9. Apricots
10. Green beans
11. Chilean-grown grapes
12. Cucumbers
Of the 42 fruits and vegetables tested, strawberries
were by far the most toxic. They were given a toxicity score of 189 of a
possible 200 points. The FDA detected captan, benomyl, vinclozolin, iprodione,
and endosulfan on the majority of strawberries tested during their two year
study. These pesticides well known carcinogens and endocrine disruptors.
Some foods that contained the lowest levels of pesticide residues are:
l. Corn
2. Sweet potatoes
3. Cauliflower
4. Brussel sprouts
5. Grapes (U.S.)
6. Bananas
7. Plums
8. Watermelon
9. Broccoli
The USDA recommends that produce be washed under tap
water before serving. Consumers should peel away and discard outer leaves, skin
or rinds. Potatoes and carrots should be scrubbed. I recommend a fresh food soak
in grapefruit seed extract (20 drops to 1 gallon of water).
Seeds should be fresh and clean and preferably organic. I recommend trying to
sprout your dry seeds at home. If they don’t sprout they are dead, devoid of
life, and even less nutritious than you thought. Seeds are high in fat but also
contain the good fats birds need to be healthy. Seed intake should be controlled
and should be offered as a small part of your bird’s overall diet.
Pellets should be fresh. I recommend purchasing organic pellets (Harrison Bird
Diet, Scenic or Foundation Formula) that have an expiration date on the bag.
Pellets that have a 10 year shelf life should scare you, not excite you. There
is no one brand or type of pellet that meets all the nutritional needs of every
species of bird. Therefore, pellets should be an addition to a well-balanced
diet.
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